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February 10, 2017
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how to knit a set-in, top-down sleeve

I originally published a post on top-down, set-in sleeves a year or two ago. It was time for an update with better pictures and more concise instructions!

Knitting top-down, set-in sleeves is a technique I learned years ago, and from that first time, it became my go-to sleeve construction. This is the best way to get a perfectly fitted sleeve around your shoulder and arm with no bulky seams. It occurred to me that many experienced knitters aren't familiar with this simple and fool-proof construction. While this sleeve technique is rarely written into patterns, it can be used in any pattern to replace a standard sleeve that has a bell shaped cap at the top. I've only used it with stockinette and garter, but I think with a little bit of planning, this technique could be used with more complicated stitch patterns.

The sleeve scythe, or the opening where the sleeve is set into the body, is totally customizable. If this is a sweater you will be wearing right next to your skin, you might like the look of a more fitted sleeve. If this is a sweater you will most likely be wearing over a shirt, such as a cardigan, you'll likely want the opening a little larger to accommodate for that. Top-down set-in sleeves give you the freedom to change these measurements on the body of your sweater, but your sleeve will need no adjusting; your sleeve will automatically fit! You'll never have too much sleeve and not enough sweater or vice versa, avoiding any potential puckers around the sleeve scythe once and for all. And, this sleeve will fit your arm too, because you can try it on and adjust if necessary as you go along.

You can either knit your sleeves in the round or flat. If you knit them in the round, seam both sides of your sweater. If you are going to knit them flat, leave them un-seamed. For both, seam the shoulder seams.

Before you proceed, please read the entire directions below.

Start with the right sleeve, and using a circular needle with the right side of the back facing you, start at the underarm and pick up stitches all around the back arm scythe to the shoulder seam. The ratio is 1 stitch per 2 rows, even at the underarm. Pick up the same amount of stitches down the front arm and underarm. If you have 30 stitches up the back, you will need 30 stitches down the front. Now the knitting begins.

Row 1: Knit stitches up the back to 1.5" (for an adult, less for a child) past the shoulder seam, wrap and turn next stitch. See below for how to make a wrap and turn.

Row 2: Purl to 1.5" past shoulder seam, wrap and turn next stitch.

Row 3: Knit to your last wrapped stitch, knit the wrapped stitch, wrap and turn next stitch. Turn your work.

Row 4: Purl to your last wrapped stitch, purl the wrapped stitch, wrap and turn next stitch. Turn your work.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches have been incorporated into the bell. Note, I almost always stop at the last 1" to 2" on each side of the side seam, the first cast off stitches at the underarm and perhaps an inch before those as well. These stitches do not need to be wrapped and turned, instead, simply knit "through them" and incorporate into your round. If I want a slimmer sleeve (even factoring in that I have adjusted my sleeve scythe) I will leave the last 2" unwrapped. However, usually I only leave the last 1" before and after the side seam unwrapped.

Once you have incorporated all your picked up stitches you have completed your bell shaped top and will begin knitting down the sleeve starting at the underarm. If you are knitting your sleeves in the round, join for working in the round. You can use small 9" circulars (my preference) DPNs or magic loop. If you are knitting your sleeves flat, cast on one stitch each side for seaming and continue working to end. For either way, you can add any sleeve shaping desired. Generally, the decreases are made every 1.5-2 inches, but try it on frequently to get your perfect fit. Knit to desired sleeve length, adding the finish edging the pattern calls for; ribbing, lace, etc.

Directions for Short Rows, Wrap and Turn:

On knit side: Knit to the stitch you want to wrap, bring yarn between needles from back to front. Slip stitch purl-wise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn between needles again, from front to back. Slip stitch purl-wise from right needle to left needle. Turn work to begin next row.

On purl side: Purl to the stitch you want to wrap, bring yarn between needles from front to back. Slip stitch purl-wise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn between needles again, from back to front. Slip stitch purl-wise from right needle to left needle. Turn work to begin next row.

If you are familiar with wrap and turn short rows, you're probably used to "picking up the wraps". In this sleeve technique, you DO NOT pick up wraps. This gives a more "full-fashioned" look to the sleeve, which I prefer, however, you can pick up the wraps if you prefer that look.

See the pictures below for help with each step. I hope you give it a try! I bet you'll find yourself using it as often as you can!

Pick up stitches all around the arm scythe at the ration of 1 to 2.

Begin your short rows. You'll notice I have a marker at the top.
I didn't include it in the instructions because it's not necessary.

As you continue your short rows, the bell of the sleeve grows.

When you are done shaping the bell with short rows, you will knit the sleeve down.

You can knit the sleeves flat or in the round. The picture above shows a sleeve that is being knitted in the round, but the previous pictures show a sleeve that was knit flat.

In the demonstration project I did not have a 9" circular. Now I have a nice selection of the 9" circulars, my Christmas gift this year. In the photo above you can see them in use, knitting the sleeve down in the round, getting ready for the first decrease.

This sweater is a loose fitting sweater and the sleeves are not meant to fit tightly around the upper arm. I hope my instructions will show you

I finished this sweater last summer and it's taken me this long to get this post written. The pattern is Soho by Martin Storey from Easy DK Knits, a book I'm totally in love with--so many beautiful and classic patterns to knit and wear everywhere. I made my first Soho more dressy with Kidsilk Haze Eclipse and ended up wearing it so often, I figured I would love to wear it knit in a more casual yarn. Enter Pure Wool DK--it's perfect for our cool summer nights.

My project page on Ravelry for Soho

Easy DK Knits by Martin Storey

Rowan Pure Wool Superwash DK

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Thank you! Kristen

Edited on 2/8/17: Good timing! Just this morning, Kate Davies published a great post on this same subject!